Taking advantage of the tree sales this fall? Every kind of tree has
unique height, width, and spacing and environmental needs in order to
fully mature. Before going to the garden center, do a little research.
Find out if the species or variety you are thinking of is well suited
for you site. Though it takes some time, this is less painful and less
time consuming than planting a tree, nurturing it for several years, and
then loosing it because it was a poorly suited to the site.
When possible, choose varieties resistant to diseases and insects.
For example, some varieties of crabapple drop their leaves all summer
due to a disease called apple scab. Lists of disease resistant varieties
are available on the web or from your local Extension office. Choose a
variety that is relatively resistant to apple scab.
Check also the expected mature size since different varieties vary
dramatically in height and width as well as flower color, leaf color and
bloom time. Also, consider your soil. Pin oak
Once you’ve located a source for the tree you want, examine each
sapling with a critical eye. Is the trunk straight? Choose a tree with a
straight single central leader. If it has multiple leaders, look for
wide angles where the branch attaches to the trunk. Narrow "V" branch
angles are prone to splitting during storms. Good selection and early
pruning out of narrow branch V’s ensures a strong tree.
Also, check for crossing branches that rub against each other.
Rubbing creates a wound where insects or disease can gain entrance, so
crossing branches are best rejected or pruned out if the tree is
otherwise a good find. Examine the trunk and decline those with wounded
trunks. Use a tarp or landscape fabric to protect trees from wind damage
and protect the trunk from wounding during transport. Purchase your
find, and maybe mulch or woodchips now too.
Tree Planting Matters
Research has revealed the how you plant now will affect the survival
and health of the tree for decades to come. The sides of the
planting hole should be roughed up rather than smooth, as roots avoid
penetrating slick surfaces. Skip the additives (compost, peat, etc.) in
the planting holes since roots will extend far out into the surrounding
area.
Check for roots that circle around the root ball. Untangle circling
roots now if possible, or if necessary cut them cleanly so they will not
girdle the tree and kill it as it grows. Slide the tree gently into the
hole. Level or turn the tree to the desired position with the root flare
about 2" above grade. Then, gently so as not to damage the soil ball,
cut away and unwrap all burlap and root bag material from the ball and
hole. All twine and rope should be removed as well.
Use water to settle the soil around the roots. Stomping causes the
soil to compact and is counterproductive. Watering will remove possible
air pockets existing in backfill. Do not stake. Trees can die from being
girdled by guide wires being left on too long.
Add a woodchip mulch to protect the trunk from weed whips, and to
conserve soil moisture. Keep chips a few inches from the bark of
the trunk, and extending 2’ to 3’ out from tree, forming a "donut"
around the tree. Water regularly. With care, and good luck, your
tree will last a life time, or more.
